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// Food journeys across the North Caucasus

A road you can taste

Five routes through mountains and villages where every stop is a dish from our catalogue. See what is served in the gorges and at the markets, open the recipes and get ready for the road.

// Route map

Five roads through the mountains

Hover over a route to light up the road and its stopsTap a route to light up the road

Caspian Sea Elbrus5642 Kazbek5033 Pyatigorsk Kislovodsk Mineralnye Vody Chegem Waterfalls Upper Balkaria and the Blue Lakes Elbrus region, Terskol 01Nalchik Fiagdon and Dzivgis fortress Dargavs and Karmadon Tsei Gorge 02Vladikavkaz Sulak Canyon Gunib and Gamsutl Derbent 03Makhachkala Argun Gorge Kezenoy-Am and Vedeno Ingushetia, Dzheyrakh Gorge 04Grozny Khabez Arkhyz Teberda and Dombay 05Cherkessk
01

// Route 01 · Kabardino-Balkaria

To the foot of Elbrus

Duration
3 days
Start
Nalchik
Season
May — October
Distance
≈ 400 km

From the capital into the gorges, where khychiny are baked right in front of you by the waterfalls and shepherds drink jarma made from ayran. The finale is the Azau glade beneath twin-peaked Elbrus.

  1. Nalchik

    The central market and home-style Kabardian cooking: chicken in sour-cream sauce and fluffy lakume with tea.

    GedlibzheLakume

  2. Chegem Waterfalls

    Three mountain rivers tumble down the cliffs. By the viewpoints, khychiny with cheese and potato come straight off the hot griddle.

    Khychin

  3. Upper Balkaria and the Blue Lakes

    The Cherek Gorge, ancient towers and pastures: gyrdzhyn bread at the table and cool jarma.

    GyrjynJarma

  4. Elbrus region, Terskol

    Cafés by the lifts, mountain herb tea and Balkar sokhta; in the evening, lyguazha — meat in a spicy sauce.

    SokhtaLyguazha

02

// Route 02 · North Ossetia

Three pies and the city of the dead

Duration
3 days
Start
Vladikavkaz
Season
all year round
Distance
≈ 250 km

The Ossetian table rests on three pies — earth, sun and sky. The route leads from Vladikavkaz bakeries into the Kurtatin and Karmadon gorges, to the crypts of Dargavs and village beer.

  1. Vladikavkaz

    Mira Avenue and family bakeries: fydzhyn with meat, ualibakh with cheese, kartofdzhyn. A dough master class.

    FydjynWalibakhKartofjyn

  2. Fiagdon and Dzivgis fortress

    The Kurtatin Gorge: cheese dairies, Ossetian cheese and home-brewed beer.

    Ossetian cheeseOssetian beer

  3. Dargavs and Karmadon

    A necropolis of a hundred crypts and hot springs. In the village — dzykka of cheese and sour cream, and khadurdzhyn with beans.

    DzykkaKhadurjyn

  4. Tsei Gorge

    Pines and a glacier: tsakharadzhyn with beet leaves and lyvzha — meat slowly stewed with onions.

    TsakharajynLyvzha

03

// Route 03 · Dagestan

From the Sulak to Derbent

Duration
4 days
Start
Makhachkala
Season
April — November
Distance
≈ 700 km

The most varied table in the Caucasus: every people has its own khinkal. A canyon deeper than the Grand Canyon, villages on cliffs, urbech from mountain mills and Russia's oldest city by the sea.

  1. Makhachkala

    The market and chudu — thin pies with meat, greens and cottage cheese; kurze pinched into an ear of wheat.

    ChuduKurze

  2. Sulak Canyon

    A boat on turquoise water and lunch in Dubki: Avar khinkal — thick dumplings, broth and garlic sauce.

    Avar khinkal

  3. Gunib and Gamsutl

    Mountain Dagestan, Shamil's fortress and a ghost village. Urbech from a stone mill — with honey and butter on bread.

    Urbech

  4. Derbent

    Naryn-Kala, the old quarters and Lezgin cooking: afarar with greens and tiny dyushbara in broth.

    AfararDushbara

04

// Route 04 · Chechnya and Ingushetia

Towers and zhizhig-galnash

Duration
3 days
Start
Grozny
Season
May — October
Distance
≈ 450 km

The Vainakh table is generous and simple: meat, dumplings, pumpkin and corn. Between meals — the medieval towers of the Argun Gorge, the mountain lake Kezenoy-Am and the Dzheyrakh Gorge of Ingushetia.

  1. Grozny

    The republic's signature dish, zhizhig-galnash: boiled meat, dumplings and broth. For dessert — chepalgash with cottage cheese.

    Zhizhig galnashChepalgash

  2. Argun Gorge

    The twin towers of Ushkaloy and khingalsh — thin pumpkin flatbreads drizzled with butter.

    Khingalash

  3. Kezenoy-Am and Vedeno

    A high mountain lake and a village table: corn siskal, akhar-khudar and festive khyovla.

    SiskalAkhar khudarKhovla

  4. Ingushetia, Dzheyrakh Gorge

    The tower complexes of Egikal and Vovnushki; at the guesthouse — dulkh-khyaltam and zhizhig-chorpa.

    Dulkh-khaltamZhizhig chorpa

05

// Route 05 · Karachay-Cherkessia

Circassian cheese and Arkhyz

Duration
3 days
Start
Cherkessk
Season
all year round
Distance
≈ 350 km

A Circassian village famous for its cheese, the ancient churches of Arkhyz and the resorts of Teberda. Here Circassian cooking meets Karachay cooking.

  1. Cherkessk

    Shchips — a thick sauce for chicken — with pasta, a firm millet porridge eaten instead of bread.

    ShchipsPasta (millet porridge)

  2. Khabez

    A Circassian village with family dairies: Adyghe cheese, mezhadzhe of corn flour and flaky guubat.

    Adyghe cheeseMezhadzheGuubat

  3. Arkhyz

    Alanian churches of the 10th century and the Face of Christ on the rock; khalyuzh with cheese and Adyghe herb salt.

    KhalyuzhAdyghe salt

  4. Teberda and Dombay

    Lakes and glaciers. For dinner — chetlibzh, chicken in sour cream with garlic.

    Chetlibzh

We will plan a route for you

The itineraries are approximate: dates, roads and guesthouses are arranged together with local guides. Tell us which dishes you want to try and we will tell you where to go for them.

Telegram → hello@gastroguia.ru

Hover a dish to see it, click to open its card.

Georgian cuisine58
Azerbaijani cuisine51
Armenian cuisine44
Turkish cuisine30
Iranian cuisine25
Uzbek cuisine20
Ossetian cuisine11
Adyghe cuisine8
Chechen cuisine8
Kazakh cuisine8
Tajik cuisine8
Abkhaz cuisine5
Crimean Tatar cuisine5
Kyrgyz cuisine4
Avar cuisine4
Kabardian cuisine4
Turkmen cuisine3
Karachay-Balkar cuisine3
Lezgin cuisine1